Montevideo

The Groovy Sounds of Montevideo: A History of Candombe and Beyond

Montevideo, the vibrant capital of Uruguay, has a musical heritage as rich and diverse as its people. While tango and milonga might be better known, the beating heart of Uruguayan music is Candombe, a deeply rooted, Afro-Uruguayan genre that pulsates through the streets and speaks to the soul of the city.

From African Roots to Urban Rhythms:

Candombe emerged from the rhythms and traditions brought to Uruguay by enslaved Africans from West Africa. The powerful drumming, complex polyrhythms, and infectious energy of Candombe were used in religious ceremonies, festivals, and social gatherings. In the 19th century, the genre gained popularity in Montevideo, becoming synonymous with the city’s identity.

The Candombe Parade:

The most vibrant expression of Candombe is the Desfile de Llamadas, a street parade held annually in Montevideo. This spectacular spectacle features groups of Candomberos (drummers) dressed in traditional costumes, wielding large, handcrafted drums called tambores. The parade pulsates with an irresistible energy, fueled by the hypnotic rhythms of the drums and the joyful dancing of the Lubolas, women who dance and sing in colourful attire.

Beyond Candombe:

While Candombe remains a cornerstone of Uruguayan music, Montevideo has spawned many other genres and artists. Tango and Milonga, with their melancholic melodies and intricate rhythms, have also found a home in the city, while Folklore and Tropical music add their own distinct flavour to the cultural landscape.

Funny Facts:

• Candombe drums are so big, they can sometimes be taller than the drummers themselves! Imagine trying to carry one of those beasts through the streets!
• The Desfile de Llamadas is so popular, that it’s not uncommon to see tourists dancing and singing along with the Candomberos, even if they don’t speak a word of Spanish!
• One famous Uruguayan musician, Alfredo Zitarrosa, was so passionate about Candombe, he once dedicated an entire album to the genre, titled “Candombe para un Rey.” That’s right, he wrote a whole album for a king, who just happened to be a drum!

Montevideo’s music scene is a testament to the city’s diverse cultural heritage and its ability to embrace tradition while forging new paths. Whether it’s the powerful beats of Candombe, the sensual rhythms of tango, or the lively melodies of folklore, the music of Montevideo is a symphony of life, energy, and joy.